Destination 04: Capri
Nobody does life better than the Italians. No matter the subject: food, love, work (or lack thereof), the focus is always on living…and living well. Italy is a top vacation destination for good reason. The country is stunning, the people are welcoming, and the food is sinful.
Capri, the small but stunning, island off the coast of Naples is probably one of the most glamourous places I’ve ever been. Everything is sexy. From the impeccably dressed women, to the handsome taxi drivers. The views are sexy, the food is sexy. Hell, even the lemon trees are sexy! On any given night you can find yourself walking down one of the cobblestone streets with a gelato (also sexy) in hand, until you stumble across the sounds of Alicia Keys echoing in the sweet air from a nearby villa. The next thing you know, you are dancing with strangers under the stars. La dolce vita indeed! Or in other words, Pure magic.
Getting There: The best way to reach Capri is via the ferry from Naples. Hop on the Alibus at the Naples airport for a direct ride to the ferry port. The ride will only cost you 5€ and you will arrive at the port in about 20 minutes. During prime Summer months the ferries run frequently, and you can buy a ticket at the port upon arrival. A one-way ticket will cost between 20€-30€ and the ride will take about 40-45 minutes. Sometimes, the ferries leave a few minutes before the scheduled departure so make sure to be there at least 15 minutes early. Then, grab a seat on the boat’s roof deck and sip on a Peroni while you sail to paradise.
Capri vs. Anacapri: The island is made up of two main towns, Capri and Anacapri. Capri is the main town and hub for restaurants, beach clubs and nightlife. Anacapri is a short 20-minute ride from Capri and is more residential and quieter with less tourists. I recommend staying in Capri, especially when visiting for the first time, as it will be easier to get around on foot, and you will be more central to all the action. That’s not to say you shouldn’t spend a day or two in Anacapri, as there are plenty of popular hotels, beach clubs and restaurants on this side of the island that shouldn’t be missed.
Getting Around: When the ferry drops you at Marina Grande, the fastest and easiest way to reach Capri’s center square (Piazzetta) is via the funicular. It’s a quick uphill ride that only costs 2€. You are allowed a small piece of luggage free of cost, but there may be a surcharge of 2€ for any larger bags (however, I’ve never experienced an upcharge). There are also plenty of porters at the docks that will transport your luggage to your hotel for a small fee if you don’t feel like lugging it around. Your hotel can most likely arrange this for you, especially if they offer a free shuttle pick up. The taxis are glamourous and open-topped; however, they will cost you. A typical taxi ride will set you back anywhere from 25€-35€, so I would reserve this option for when it’s necessary. With that said, the taxis can usually fit up to 6-7 passengers and can be a cost-effective option if you are travelling as a group. Alternatively, the bus system is very easy to navigate and only cost 2€ a ride. The buses are smaller than what you would expect and are usually crammed in Summer months, but when you need a lift and want to save money the bus is the way to go. Otherwise, it’s easy to get around the island on foot, and the views you will encounter will make the walk that much more enticing.
Piazzetta: The center square in Capri is the heart and soul of the town. The Piazzetta is bustling from sun up to sun down, and it sets the perfect scene for prime people watching. It’s my favorite place for aperitivo and glitterati spotting. Pull up a seat at one of the four surrounding bars, order an aperol spritz and catch a buzz al fresco.
Boat Tripping: You simply can’t appreciate the splendor of this magnificent island until you see it from the water. Spending a day (or even half the day) on a boat should be the highest priority on your to do list. Although there are plenty of boats down at the docks of Marina Grande or Marina Piccolo that you can try and haggle, I would recommend booking in advance so secure the day/time that you want. We liked Capri Blue Boats – the boats are lovely, the skippers are fun and professional and there is plenty of beer, prosecco and limoncello on board to keep you well hydrated. We booked the half-day, 4-hour afternoon tour. Pro tip: The tours pick up and drop off at Marina Piccolo, however, you can ask them to pick you up or drop you off at a different location that is also on the water. For example, we spent the first half of the day at Fontelina and had our boat pick us up there after lunch and drop us off at Lido del Faro in Anacapri for sunset cocktails (more on this below).
Hotels:
Mamela: Mamela is a delightful, centrally located hotel, only a short walk to the Piazzetta. The staff are very friendly and helpful, and the rooms are simple and clean. The pool is lovely, and the inclusive breakfast buffet is decent. This hotel is one of the better values in Capri.
La Minerva: Mamela’s chicer and cozier neighbor. This stylish, boutique hotel only has 19 rooms, so book well in advance. It’s ideally situated between the Piazzetta and the Faraglioni, Capri’s most iconic sight of three large rock formations floating on the sea. Rates are a little steeper here, but the elegance and picturesque views make up for it.
Villa Brunella: Villa Brunella is my favorite hotel on the island. Tucked away on a hill off the famous Via Tragara, this slightly hidden, boutique hotel boasts one of the most impressive locations in Capri. I actually gasped when I transcended down the stairs to arrive at a panoramic pool with vast views overlooking the Marina Piccolo. It’s a family-run hotel that definitely exudes comfort and warmth from the second you check-in. The rooms are comfortable, most with a little patio, and if you book early enough you can score amazing rates.
JK Place: When you arrive at this luxury hotel, you will instantly feel as if you have been transported into a Fellini film. The property screams glamour, and once you perch up on one of the pool loungers it may be hard to ever leave. Located off the Mariana Grande, it’s slightly removed from the center, but still close enough to the action. Save up, because this hotel will most definitely be a splurge.
Capri Tiberio Palace: Eclectic, boutique hotel with tons of character. Located on a quiet street in the center of Capri, a short walk to the Piazzetta and beaches.
Beach Clubs:
La Fontelina: Continually dubbed one of the most famous beach clubs in the world with good reason. It’s ultra-chic, ultra-glam and ultra-exclusive! The restaurant and beach club sit perched on the rocks down by the sea, with stunning views of the Faraglioni. You can easily access the beach club by boat or walk down a spiraling path to the sea. Fontelina offers a shuttle boat back to Marina Piccolo that leaves every 30 minutes and is 5€ per person (cash only). I would walk there so that you can take in the breathtaking views and get that aerial shot of those famous blue and white striped umbrellas, and then take the shuttle back. Or as I mentioned above, get your private boat to drop or pick you up there before or after your boat tour.
Fontelina requires planning ahead. You can try your luck to score a reservation for lunch (seatings available at 1pm or 3pm) by contacting them 24 to 48 hours prior (or have your hotel try and secure a reservation for you). The famous Fontelina seafood pasta is an absolute must! Side Note: lounge chairs are offered as part of the lunch reservation (although cost an extra 70€ for two beach chairs and towels), however, you can’t access the beach club without a lunch reservation. If you want to be guaranteed a spot you can make a reservation on their website for 2-3 consecutive days in a row. It may seem a little repetitive, however, I assure you that once you are there, you’ll wonder how you thought to sunbathe anywhere else.
Da Luigi ai Faragliono: Good news is that if you can’t score a reservation at Fontelina (or want to try something different), Da Luigi is located a short 5 min walk away. It’s a little less glam and the food isn’t as top notch, however, it’s still a great place to soak in the sun and even better views (it’s situated right underneath the Faragliono). You won’t really get much of a price break here, but it’s easier to score a reservation or just walk up on the fly.
Lido del Faro: One of my new personal favs. It’s located on the southernmost tip of Anacapri, nestled between the rocks and situated next to the beautiful Punta Carena lighthouse (“Faro” in Italian). It’s a little off-the-beaten-path with a more casual vibe. What makes Lido del Faro unique is the pool and the fact that you will be surrounded by mostly Italians. The locals lay their towels down on the rocks next to the beach club, while rowdy Italian kids dare to jump off the highest rocks. Make sure to stay for the epic sunset, and if you go on the weekend hit up the adjacent Sunset Malibu bar for a fun DJ set and to sip cocktails while you watch the sun sink into the sea.
Restaurants/Bars:
Da Paolino: At this popular restaurant, experience and atmosphere are king. The food is good (and expensive), but there are more delicious places to eat on the island. But if you are itching to post an Insta worthy shot that will be sure to make your friends jealous, then Da Paolino is your place. The wrought iron entrance gate opens up onto a large terrace situated under an orchard of lemon trees. The staff is also super friendly and will make sure you get good and tipsy off…you guessed it…delicious limoncello.
Aurora: This upscale pizzeria is one of the oldest restaurants in Capri, and a favorite of celebrities. The restaurant is conveniently situated right in the town center, a few steps away from the Piazzetta, with sidewalk tables that are perfect for prime people watching. Oh, and the food is delish.
Villa Verde: Villa Verde is not to missed when visiting Capri. Also located only a few meters away from the Piazzetta, this restaurant is nothing short of an amazing time. It’s my favorite restaurant on the island for many reasons: the food is delicious (I had one of the best truffle pasta dishes of my life here), the waiters are super fun (they came out dancing with me and my friend after dinner), and the back terrace is lively and bustling with great energy (we were soon fast friends with all the neighboring tables). There is no doubt you will leave Villa Verde with a belly full of pasta and a heart full of memories that will last a lifetime.
Da Gelsomina: This beloved restaurant in Anacapri is part of a serene B&B with the most scenic views of the Mediterranean. The food is traditional, and most of the ingredients used are harvested from the gardens and orchards surrounding the property. It truly is grandma’s cooking, as I could have sworn I saw nonna in the kitchen rolling out fresh pasta. The restaurant offers a free shuttle service from the center of Anacapri, which I would highly advise taking advantage of. Pro Tip: The idyllic pool is not only open to B&B guests. Take the free shuttle, sip cocktails by the pool all day and then head to the restaurant for nonna’s daily specialties. Can you think of a better way to spend a day in Anacapri? I didn’t think so.
Il Riccio: Situated cliffside in Anacapri and overlooking the famous Blue Grotto, this Michelin star restaurant will simply take your breath away. The restaurant is part of the luxurious Capri Palace hotel, so you know they aren’t playing games. This restaurant oozes chic with its vibrant blue and white décor and airy terrace overlooking the sea. The seafood can’t be beat here, and the sea urchin spaghetti is the star. Don’t forget to venture to the “Temptation Room” after your meal to indulge on an overflowing display of sweet treats and Neapolitan cakes. Pro Tip: Above the restaurant is a small beach club with sun beds and loungers. The club is usually reserved for hotel guests but if you schmooze the staff, they may just let you upstairs after lunch so that you don’t have to waste any precious tanning time.
Il Geranio: Another lovely restaurant with a fantastic terrace and spectacular views (I think you are starting to see a trend here).
Gelateria Buonocore: Follow your nose to the sinful Gelateria Buonocore, which is by far the best gelato on the island. Located a short walk from the Piazzetta, people line up day and night to get their hands on a cone that they make fresh right in front of you. It will be hard to resist this place, but hey you are on vacation. Treat yourself!
Taverna Anema e Core: The only nightlife spot you need to know about it the famous Taverna Anema e Core. This legendary spot is not your typical nightclub. It has a more laid back, intimate feel, and rather than the usual European house music, it boasts a live band that will play everything from classic rock to international pop to traditional Neapolitan music. And don’t be surprised if Beyonce jumps on stage for a cameo. Book a (pricey) table or dress to impress for basic entry. Cover cost will set you back 40€, which includes one drink, but will be well worth it. This is where you are going to party the night away, Italian style.
