Destination 01: Paris
The city of lights. Also the city of cheese, croissants and foie gras. Which let’s be honest, are my true loves.
I’ve been to Paris so many times for work that it’s basically become a second home to me. It’s one of the most beautiful cities in the world…with an edge. I love Paris for its arrogance and dark romance that allows you to feel your most creative self. It’s no surprise that some of the most famous artists, poets and writers all created some of their best work there. Paris is, and will always remain, a source of inspiration. It inspires creativity at your lowest point. It inspires dreams even when you are awake. But above all else, it inspires love when you thought it was lost. Whatever the emotion, Paris is a city that forces you to feel.
It’s hard not to get lost in the streets of Paris. There is so much to eat, do, see, and did I mention eat? I could write a novel about this city, so I’ll keep it as short and sweet as possible. Below are my highlights for keeping it très chic in Paree!
Getting Around: You can get around Paris very easy on foot, but Uber is your best bet when you need to dash to dinner in your Louboutins. When you order an UberX in Paris, you will likely get a black Mercedes that’s impeccably clean with a driver who’s wearing a suit. He will offer you water and a treatie (little candy), and he will always open the door for you like a gentleman. Ubers in Paris stay true to form – everything is trés chic. Ubers are also cheaper than taxis, so this is the best option when you need a lift. The metro and busses are also super easy to navigate when you want to save money. Download the app Citymapper, which will tell you the exact route and lines to take with time estimates, ensuring a smooth connection.
Districts (aka Arrondissements):
Paris is split up into 20 districts, called arrondissments in French, and each one is designated by the corresponding number and a lower case “e”. Pro tip: the last number of an address’s zip code is the arrondissment in which it is located. The famous Seine River splits the city into two halves. The Left Bank is the smaller half, which is located on the southern side of the river and home to six arrondissments. The left bank is known as the more artsy part of the city. The Right Bank is located north of the river and is much larger, with 14 arrondissments. Each district is comprised of four neighborhoods, and even though all of them have their own charm and are worth a visit, below are my favorites:
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6e): This is my favorite neighborhood. It’s picturesque and enchanting with chic shops, delicious restaurants, famous cafés and historical landmarks. It’s the quintessential Parisian neighborhood. It reminds me a lot of the West Village, which was my home in NYC. One of my favorite streets in St. Germain, and Paris in general, is called rue de Buci. I discovered this street the very first time I came to Paris, and its enchantment has drawn me back for a visit every time I touch down in the French capital. The street is bustling day and night, filled with adorable boutiques, patisseries, cafés, delicatessens and bookstores. One of my favorite things to do is sit under the red and white awning of Bar du Marché with a glass of wine (the food is not amazing so save the calories for somewhere better), while flirting with the cute, suspender-clad waiters and watching the magic of the street unfold.
The 6e is also home to the stunning Jardin du Luxembourg. I’ve spent many days wandering around the grounds, either reading a book in the exquisite gardens or listening to a musical performance in the gazebo. It’s a little oasis in the middle of the city, and a part of Paris not to be missed
Le Marais (3e/4e): If Saint-Germain is the West Village, then Le Marais is the East Village. It’s a little more gritty and hip; it’s where you will find all the cool kids. This hood straddles both the 3e and 4e, with plenty of vintage boutiques, galleries and cafés packed on each street. It’s probably Paris’s trendiest hood, and the only one where most shops and restaurants stay open on Sundays.
Place Vendôme (1e): One of the most beautiful and regal arrondissments is the 1e. Home to the famous Le Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens and Place Vendôme, it provides the backdrop for some of the most captured Paris Instagram shots. The Palais-Royale area (translation to royal palace), was once the home of the King, making the architecture there particularly grand. The 1e is an upscale part of the city with all the high-end designer boutiques, hotels and eateries. Place Vendôme was my home every time I visited Paris, and especially during fashion week, this hood is infiltrated with models, celebrities and fashion’s elite.
La Bourse (2e): The 2e is the smallest district in Paris, but one of the best to get your grub on. Some of my favorite restaurants are located here (see list below), and rue Montorgueil is one of the best food and shopping streets in Paris. It’s lined with cozy bistrots, bakeries, cheese and wine shops, meat and fish markets and flower stands. You can also find La Maison Stohrer, one of Paris’s most famous pastry shops, on this street. So grab an éclair and stroll down food lovers row.
Popincourt (11e): Another great foodie hub, this district boasts some of Paris’s most talked about restaurants and bars (also see below). It has a decent night life scene and is less touristy than most parts of the city.
Restaurants
Chez L'Ami Jean (7e): L’Ami Jean is the BEST restaurant in Paris. There, I said it. But those who know, KNOW! I basically plan my trips to Paris around eating at this restuarnt. I once vistied at a time when it was closed (Sundays and Mondays) and was gutted for weeks. It’s just that good. If you want to impress Parisans than tell them you are eating at L’Ami Jean. You’ll get a nod of approval for not being the stupid tourist that they thought you were. It’s a crammed, cozy and lively Basque style Parisan bistrot with rustic wood tables and plush red leather banquet seating. Chef Stéphane Jégo is a living legend, who you can watch from the kitchen window putting out meticulous dishes of various meats, fish and vegetables, while screaming at his servers to pick up plates once they are piping hot and ready to be served. The flavours will tantalize your taste buds and leave you feeling a rush of ecstasy. Make sure not to leave before ordering their famous rice pudding for dessert. I know, it sounds weird. But trust me, you won’t regret it.
La Poule au Pot (1e): If I had to choose one word to best describe this popular French bistrot it would be decedant. This legendary address was recently taken over and given a facelift by Michelin star chef Jean-François Piège. The new space still has a classic, old-school vibe with modern finishes (think copper bar, floral wall paper and pink tablecloths). The crowd is chic, and it’s become a favorite amongst fashionistas. The food is delicious and indulgent, to say the least. Stand-out dishes include the French onion soup, escargots and the beef filet au poivre. Wash it all down with a bottle of Burgundy.
Frenchie, Frenchie Wine Bar and Frenchie to Go (2e): The dynamic trio, I frequent at least one of the three almost every visit to Paris. All are excellent and located on the same street in the 2e. Frenchie is more formal, with a pre-fix menu. Reservations are a must and tough to score, so brush up on your French and put on your best charm. If you can’t get into Frenchie, Frenchie Wine Bar is across the street and the next best option. I actually prefer the wine bar for its casual and communal atmosphere and delicious wine and a la carte options. Reservations aren’t accepted, so to avoid waiting in line too long, arrive at least 30-45 minutes before opening time to ensure you will be part of the first seating. Frenchie to Go is perfect to pop in for a casual breakfast or takeout lunch. The reuben sandwich is to die for.
Daroco (2e): I’m sure your first thought is not to eat Italian food in Paris, but this place is worth the carbs. The food is yummy and the crowd is stylish. Pizzas and pastas are the star here. Also, the ceiling is mirrored, so don’t forget to look up for that Instagram shot.
Ellsworth (1e): This popular restaurant is alwyas on everyone’s lips (literally and figuratively). And for good reason, the food is top notch and the atmosphere is casual and relaxed. If you can’t score a table, try eating at the bar for a more social vibe. Don’t forget to order the fried chicken.
Septime (11e): One of the best tasting menus in Paris, and with 7-courses for dinner at only 80€ it’s a real bargain for the value. To score a reservation here is like finding the golden ticket in a Willy Wonka bar, so make sure to book exactly 3 weeks in advance when bookings become available. The 4-course lunch tasting menu is a little easier to book, or you can take your chances by arriving early and putting your name down for a table. Pro Tip: You can have a drink and pray to the food Gods at Septime Cave (the sister wine bar next door) while you wait.
Clamato (11e): If you are craving seafood, this is the spot. The masterminds behind famous Septime, opened this laid-back, hot spot a few years ago. The menu is shellfish centric, with a nice combination of innovativeness and simplicity. Clamato doesn’t take reservations, so if you are willing to go on off hours or wait in line, you’ll taste flavorful dishes while listening to a kick-ass soundtrack and starring at hot servers. This is a place that stimulates all the senses.
Le Comptoir du Relais (6e): This place is simply bomb. It’s my favorite bistrot by far. Food is classic French, with some of the best bone marrow and foie gras I’ve ever had. It’s popular, so book well in advance or expect long lines. Pro Tip: Book a room at the charming Hotel Relais Saint Germain because hotel guests are guaranteed restaurant reservations.
L'avant Comptoir and Comptoir de la Mer (6e): When you can’t secure a table at Le Comptoir, hop next door to its sister restaurants. L’avant Comptoir’s dishes are hearty, where Comptoir de la Mer focuses more on seafood, but both are tapas style and standing room only. Chances are they will be packed, so elbow your way to the bar, grab a glass of wine and nosh on something delicious.
Huitrerie Régis (6e): Once you set foot into this charming, crisp, all-white oyster bar, you’ll think you just walked into a seaside restuarnat on the Côte d'Azur. This place freshly shucks some of the best oysters (or huîtres in French) in Paris. The menu consists mainly of variations of local oysters from nearby cities such as Brittany and Normandy, along with a few other types of shellfish and 5-6 other small starter plates. Althought the oysters are certainly the stars, the bread and butter and duck foie gras are also excellent. Note - only serious oyseter afficianadoes should dine here as each guest is requrired to order 12 oysters each minimum. So relax, order a bottle of bubbly and make the world your oyster. Pro Tip: This place is tiny (only 14 tables), therefore, if you don’t get there early be prepared for a queue. The good news is that L’avant Comptoir is down the street, so you an grab some apps and wine there why you wait for your table.
Holybelly (10e): A Canadian couple opened this Aussie-inspired café that serves excellent eggs, pancakes and coffee. This is THE spot for your weekend brunch. The staff is super friendly and the vibe is hip and trendy. A popular place amongst expats as the menu is versatile and everyone speaks English. Expect long lines.
Café de Flore (6e): One of the oldest, and arguably the most iconic, cafés in Paris. Once the regular hangout of famous philosophers and writers, it’s still very much known for its celebrity clientele. Located on a busy corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain, it’s perfectly situated for prime people watching. Sure it attracts plenty of tourists, however, it’s still an experience that everyone should have at least once when visiting Paris. Come for lunch, sit on the outside patio and enjoy the scene.
Other Notable Spots:
Le Chateaubriand (11e)
Le Dauphine (11e)
Le Hibou (6e)
Freddy's (6e)
Lou Lou (1e)
Clown Bar (11e)
Chez Janou (3e)
Chez Julien (4e)
Anahi (3e)
Bistrot Paul Bert (11e)
Le Derrière (3e) Also a fun spot for drinks
Ober Mamma Group (multiple locations)
Bars/Clubs
Hôtel Costes (1e): Voulez-vous coucher avec moi? I imagine this phrase was first spoken here. The atmosphere is masculine and moody, and the bar is the perfect place for doing dark deeds in dark corners. This hotel is the place to mingle with the fabulous crowd. The food is decent, but let’s be honest, everyone here is on the model diet. Eat elsewhere, because with a minimum of 20€ a pop for a cocktail you won’t be able to afford dinner anyway.
Experimental Cocktail Club (2e) & Prescription (6e): The guys at Experimental Cocktail Group are the kings of nightlife, and these spots are probably two of their most popular drinking holes. The original ECC is chic with an adult vibe, perfect for post-dinner cocktails. Prescription attracts more 20-somethings who prefer to get a little rowdy. The lounge is split over two floors, where you can sip on inventive cocktails, mingle and dance until dawn.
Raspoutin (8e): This hot club used to be a former brothel and Russian cabaret, which is apparent once you enter its red dominated interior. The music is a mix of electronic-pop, and the crowd is everyone from the ultra-trendy hipsters, to business men and models. The door is tight so dress to impress. Once inside, b-line to the bar for the house specialty. An ice-cold vodka shot of course.
Silencio (2e): Legendary filmmaker, David Lynch, is behind Paris’s first members club. He helped design the interiors which are inspired by his famous, neo-noir movie, Mulholland Drive. The club opened in 2011 with an intent to cater to the creative communities (ala Soho House) with a member’s program that includes concerts, exhibitions, films, events and special performances. Post 11pm, doors open to the public (correction – only the most chic and fabulous public), so make sure to look the part. The easiest way to gain entry to this trendy club is to become a member. Pro tip: Silencio offers a discounted membership option for residents outside of France. Otherwise, take your chances at the door and may the odds forever be in your favor.
Candelaria (3e): When you arrive at this popular speakeasy, you will be sure you are in the wrong place. You’ll walk into a small taqueria, and when the staff see the confused look on your face they will point you in the direction of an unmarked door. Behind said door is a cozy, dimly-lit cocktail lounge. The room is full of character and the cocktails are some of the best in the city. The space is crammed so make sure to arrive early and claim a prime spot. Because cocktails and tacos are always recipe for a successful night out.
